Please fill out the form below & we will get back to you as soon as we can.
Have a great day!
Thank You!!
|
|
About Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goats, Basic Cares & More-
They are the smallest recognized dairy goats.
Similar in size to a pygmy but Nigerian Dwarf have much greater milk production ability. Nigerians come in all colorings and patterns, pygmy do not. Dairy goat body type, larger udders and larger teats for milking.
Although a dairy breed, many just keep them as pets and for weed/brush control. Farm children enjoy learning animal husbandry by caring for these little livestock and some show them in 4H. Many adults are involved in showing them in dairy goat shows too.
Life span typically 10-14years
Height typically 17-23 inches
Weight typically 50-75lbs(some bucks can be more)
Herd animals – they do best with at least one or more companions.
Females are does. Males are bucks. Casterated males are wethers. Babies are kids. (Kids are 'Out of' dam, 'By' sire)
Breeding - bucks can breed as early as 6-8wks old so do not house them with young does or their own mothers too long. Dont breed young does till they are at least 40lbs in size (this is usually between 8-12mths old). Just make sure they are 40lbs or you could have kidding issues. Some do leash breeding so they know exact dates (especially handy for cooler weather kidding). Some run 1 buck in each doe pen but you will not know exact due dates. Dont breed too early in the fall or risk cold weather births & deaths.
Pregnancy/Gestation is approx. 145days (145-150 is most common). Does heat cycle is approx. every 17-21 days & is more regular starting late summer, with fall & winter being their main breeding time. (Bucks will be in rut at the same time.) Pregnancy can be determined by ultrasound or blood test, you can learn to draw blood. Kids can be felt on the Right side (think Right Rugrats, Left Lunch-rumen is on the left). We have a video on the video tab/Facebook - it is a very short 45sec video on how easy drawing blood can be (draw blood for pregnancy tests and disease testing).
Birthing/Birth Kit basics- paper towels, nose aspirator, iodine for dipping umbilicals, lubricant, gloves, dental floss/umbilical clamps, snares/pullers, soap&water/hand sanitizer, vets# in your cell phone. Be prepared for bottle feeding in case, tube feeding syringe, bottles, nipples. Births can be any time of day. Cold weather kiddings need monitored or kids will freeze to death or ears/feet frost bit off. I suggest spring births when it will likely be warmer April/May. Learn to find and feel the does ligaments, then you will know what day the doe will kid. We start feeling ligaments 3x day 2wks from due date.
Housing –shelter/shed/barn must be rain and snow proof (goats hate wetness just like cats do, and it could make them sick or die). They can handle summer heat if provided shade and can handle cold winters in a snow proof building/shelter. Does and wethers can be housed together. (Bucks are typically housed with other bucks, separate from the does.)
Fencing – can be a smaller dry lot or larger pasture -most fencing works ,from panels to woven wire field fencing (keeps them safe from predators and roaming dogs, they will kill them horns or not). For housing and fencing keep in mind they are about the size of a lab dog.
LGD's - Livestock Guardian Dogs - worth their weight in gold! They will protect your farm and animals. Start with a pup and grow them up with your farm animals. We have had a great pyrennes mix and anatolian shepard and prefer the anatolian because they do not have a long coat to maintain. Anatolians grow and dense coat for winter comfort.
Feeding – 1-2x day, pasture or free access to hay(alfalfa or grass hay) - we prefer to feed hay 2xdaily rather than free choice, grain/pelleted feed can be added in addition but is optional. Alfalfa and grain/pelleted feed helps with milk production. Bucks and wethers do Not need grain/pelleted feed – not feeding this helps prevent urinary stones that cause painful death. Goats also like alfalfa pellets. Goats on pasture are browsers, meaning they eat a variety of plants in the pasture but prefer weeds and tree leaves over grass (they quickly clear weedy areas). Some people include ammonium chloride in buck feed to help with stones.
Mineral - choose a loose goat mineral or cattle mineral WITH COPPER, offer free choice (Not sheep mineral, sheep mineral lacks copper which goats need but kills sheep). They do not need a white salt block it could deter them from eating their mineral. A really good goat mineral we have found is Vitaferm/Duraferm Goat Concept Aid.
Water – must be fresh and clean (goats are picky about anything floating in their water)Goats are ruminants - they have a special stomach called a rumen on the left (remember as Left Lunch -rumen movement, Right Rugrats-babies can be felt on the right).
Health/illness– your vet is your #1 support, there are also many informational books and groups online. Consider asking the breeder you purchased from to be your mentor. Some goat illness to research: fever, pneumonia, infection, cough/colds, diarrhea/scours,pinkeye, soremouth/orf, bloat, enterotoxemia, polio, listerosis, coccidiosis. Grinding teeth can mean pain. (There are others of course, but these are more common than some of the others)
Disease- Some diseases people blood test for,most commonly: CL, CAE, Johnes, brucellosis.
Temperature is normally 101.5-104.5. Own a thermometer – illness can often be visably seen by the goat ‘acting off’, tail tucked or body hunched. A temperature can mean infection or pneumonia requiring medication(vet care). Contact your vet immediatly for fever.
Issues for does can include mastitis, pregnancy toxemia/ketosis, cyctic ovaries- to name a few.
Issues for bucks can include UC Urinary Calculi (urinary stones). The stones block and lead to a painful death, see vet immediately. Limit chances of UC by NOT feeding any goat feed, all stock or any other grain type food. Also clean drinking water will promote drinking, in the winter warm water will encourage drinking to help prevent stones. Calcium Phosphorus ratio 2:1 some say up to 4:1. It is about ration of their food sources. Grain/pelleted feed can contribute to this ratio being off causing stones. Some add Ammonium Chloride to wethers/bucks feed. Or better yet dont feed grain/pellets or only in small quantiites like 1cup per day. We feed all alfalfa and have never had a case of UC. We know of others who fed too much feed and did get UC.
Wattles - they are kinda like furry skin tags on the neck, they do nothing. Some call them goat jewelry, they are unique to some goats. Occasionally a kid is born with a wattle cyst, your vet can fix it easily by swabbing in it with a silver nitrate stick. (We do it ourselves now, easy and a permanent fix with no surgery needed.)
Milking- some milk twice daily approx 12 hrs apart, others milk once a day at the same time each day. 2-5lbs day milk production. 1-1.5quarts a day is good production, some produce less & some more. Dry off does gradually lessening how often and how much you milk out. Milk stand training- dont give up, keep your hand on the udder(like massaging it) when they are acting up so they see they cant get you to stop that way, when they calm down then stop massaging and try milking again. We shave some of the hair in back prior to kidding (messy), and we keep udders shaved to get less hair in the milk.
GOAT LABOR SIGNS- From a past Facebook post of ours: Some signs your doe is in labor...will kid today...soonish...maybe.
*None, one, or all may be noticed in the last 1-24hours before kidding. Not in any particular order & not limited to these: ;)
-very soft mushy hollow near & around tail
-ligaments GONE (#1)
-pin bones can be felt more distinctly
-sunken sides/belly change
-nesting
-standoffish
-udder noticeably filled overnight or hours
-strutted shiny udder
-teats bigger all the sudden
-slow wobbly/loose in rear when walking
-running others away, territorial
-digging and digging and digging
-up down, up down, up down
-restlessness
-uncomfortable when tries to lay
-starring at the wall or head on wall
-heavy loud breathing
-grunts/moans
-tail flutters (like a hippo without the pooh)
-pissy ears/ears back
-stretching body out
-yawning
- head tossing, rolls head to back
-back legs sprawled out when laying
-looks at her side/belly
-vocal, soft talking to belly
-hollering a lot for no apparent reason
-licking own hair on body,leg
-licking teats or self nursing
-licks your hands, your clothes
-licking anything, like the walls (seems to be one of the last signs we see many times, its like their tongue prepares to work overtime for getting those babies clean)
-not eating/drinking but then eats/drinks
-discharge, mainly long white goo strand
-needy behavior, wants you to touch her
-hollering unless your in sight
-resting with head on her belly
-crooked shepards hook tail
-puffy vulva area, soft, stretchy skin there
-sunken/concave vulva area, vulva long slit
-vulva open when laying
-sniffing around on ground where laid
Worming – only as needed determined by fecal test or compare eyelid coloring to the FAMACHA chart. Do not over use wormers or the parasites will build resistance and no wormer will help you.
Lice or Mites can affect goats. Other skin/hair issues can be fungal, bacterial or deficiency.
Hoof trimming is easy and done as needed (monthly to every 2-3 months). Our favorite trimmers are ARS red handle and Silverline.
Medical Kit basics to have on hand- thermometer, blood stop powder, wound spray, bloat release, Toltrazuril(or Dimthox), CD Antitoxin(different than CDT toxoid then annual shot), Tetnus Antitoxin, 18 & 20 gauge needles, 3cc&6cc sysringes, antibiotics(*Penicillin G & *Biomycin(or LA200) are two that are easy to find ones to have both on hand), wormer(Ivomec is easy to find). (We have much more in our kit but we are raising babies and keep a large herd so it helps lessen the vet trips to our farm).
Babies - If & when you plan to breed your goats be prepared for birthing, disbudding, banding/castration & tattooing. I highly recommend learning at least the disbudding from a mentor.
Banding - a method of 'nuetering' males so to speak. It is said to put this off as long as you can (Do between 4 to 6 months of age.) to allow growth of urinary before banding (to help prevent Urinary Calculi/stones). Males can be fertile at 6-8wks old so some band them at that age. (We pull boys at 8wks old or sooner if we see them extending of they can breed mothers or young does.) We use a regular bander and the green bands. Kid may act uncomfortable like they are stretching, may bleat out loud but is fine in 15-45min. (They actually have more issues waking from surgical casteration and are sore for days, so banding is overall less on the kid.) Typically they have no issues and fall off in 3-5wks. You should watch kid/check daily for infection.
Polled - means naturally hornless, did not need to be disbudded. We recommend avoiding polled to polled breedings, it can result in hermaphrodites. Some breeders including ourselves have experienced getting a hermaphrodite from a polled to polled breeding (ours happened the one and only time we did a polled to polled breeding). Breeding polled to polled does not guarantee all polled babies, you will still get horned babies too.
HORNS/DISBUDDING- Photo of buck horn base and why we do the figure 8 method on all males. Males horn base extends forward and requires 2 overlapping circles to avoid future scurs. Females only get a single circle on each bud. Disbudding- A holding box is amazing(Caprine Supply). Rhinehart X30 with 1/2 tip(NOT the small pygmy tip, or you will get scurs). We also own a butane gas Portasol with the 18mm tip, and love it. We heat our x30 for approx 7-10min and test it on a piece of wood. We burn each bud 5-6 seconds, we go just past the copper color and we prefer to pop the cap off to ensure we fully detached the blood supply in the skin to the bud area. For bucklings we do the figure 8 method to prevent large scurs. We spray with Blukote or Aluishield. (Some day we hope to get the disbudder called EXPRESS, it is another gas disbudder that sounds superior.) We disbud males at 4-7days old, females at 4-10days old. We have had people come to us when their attempts at disbudding fail. The common problem was that they just didn't do it adequatly, they didnt burn far enough down --we go just past copper, to white - this ensures all the tissue is disconnected so there is no blood supplied to bud area. A doe on a rare occasion will not recognize the kid over the new smell from disbudding. If she pushes them away, put them in the kidding pen and her outside it starring in at them. She will smell them through the wire and get use to it. ***NEVER USE DISBUDDING PASTE ON THESE TINY GOATS! IT IS A HUGE NO NO IN THE WORLD OF DAIRY GOATS. It is said to take over 30 min+ of caustic burning pain. Their skin and skulls are too thin. They have to be full body restrained for 30 min+ to keep from itching the paste and rubbing the acid everywhere including on their mamas udder or from getting in their own eyes and going blind! Just plain cruel & irresponsible to use especially when disbudding with an iron is a much faster alternative, with no prolonged pain. An iron is far superior and only lasts mere seconds for a lifetime of benefits. Horns - many people who start out with horned goats regret it and opt to switch to a disbudded herd. Horns will NOT protect them from a dog/predator attack. Proper fencing and a Livestock Guardian Dog are the BEST protection for them. Scurs - are small bits of horn growing even after being disbudded, some intact bucks have large scurs. Small scurs are common. You can Band Horns & Scurs with the green castrating bands. It's simple & humane.
Tattooing- We use & LOVE Stone brand .300 WITHOUT ear release. (We had Bass 5/16 with ear release and hate it, because it doesnt clamp thin baby ND ears deep enough.) We have 2 tongs, one for our herd code and one for the year code. We test EVERYTIME on paper before clamping their ear. Herd code in right ear. Year code in left ear. Clean ears with alchol, give Tetnus Antitoxin shot.We use Stone brand dish ink and like it better than the green Ketchum tube (roll on is no good). We rub ink in with gloved fingers and then add more and rub in with a toothbrush. From a past Facebook post of ours: For newbies looking for tattooing info :)
OUR TATTOO KIT:
-2 Stone 300 tongs, 4 digit size(we prefer with OUT ear release)
-#300 size digits
-Stone green ink (we prefer in dish rather than the roll-on or tube)
-tetnus antitoxin
-3cc syringes, 20g needles
-disposable gloves
-alcohol
-paper towels
-each kid has a post it note with their # to test the tattoo on first
HOW WE TATTOO:
Wipe ears clean with alcohol. Give 1cc SQ tetnus antitoxin shot. Wipe a dab of ink in center of the inside Right ear, line up herd code in center of ear and clamp firm then immediatly release, rub the ink into holes, add tiny dab more ink to tip of toothbrush and lightly scrub in with the toothbrush. Switch tong/digits to that kids individual tattoo# and tattoo the Left ear.
Some do tattoos when they disbud, we like to do ours between 4-8wks old.
Other people have other methods, use ear release, 5/16, tube ink, rub in baking soda, ETC...but this works great for lasting tattoos here ;)
(We have had two 5/16 with ear release and did not feel they tattooed deep enough for us on the thin young ND ears, the springs on the tongs only let us squeeze closed so far. We noticed some pins were not going in as far as others.)
Scurs - horns that grow back after a goat has been disbudded.
There is an easy fix, just band them,
before they turn and grow back into the goats head.
Use a calf bander and calf bands (pictured below). Put them at the base of the horn, and within a few
days to weeks the horn(scur) will fall off.
You can also do it to Does or Doeling's if they still have horns.
|
|
Nigerian Goat Care:
We feed our Nigerian's Dwarf Goat's a mixture,
they love it and do extremely good on it.
It consists of 6 different things.
1)Purina Goat Noble
2)Sunflower seeds
3)Pelleted Beet Pulp
4)Pelleted Alfalfa for Does/Doelings, switch to Timothy pellets for all boys/Bucks.
5)A Cheaper Goat Feed
6)Calf Manna Supplement
We mix it together in a 32 Gallon barrel.
We also keep a Safeguard Block with our Herd at all times.
We also keep a Purina Goat Mineral out with them at all times.
The Nigerian Dwarf is Dairy Goat ~
Maximum height at the withers (high point of shoulder) for does: 22 1/2″, bucks: 23 1/2″. The care of your Nigerian is similar to the care of other goats. Good management (selection, nutrition, parasite control, health care, housing and responsible breeding) is the foundation of your herd and this will determine the ultimate condition and confirmation of your stock.
Their housing you must provide a barn, shed, or a large dog house so they can get out of rain, snow, wind and sun. You must provide a sturdy fence; the BEST fencing is four foot high by 16 foot long graduated livestock panels or “poultry/rabbit” fence with wrapped rather than welded corners is ideal and will last. Keep your goats where you want them, and to protect them from dogs and coyotes who are their greatest threat. Never trust a dog or dogs with your goats! Dogs are predators–goats are prey.
The feeding requirements of your goats depends on their age and gender. As ruminants, they depend on a diet primarily of hay. Sweet smelling, non dusty, second cut grass or grass/legume hay is ideal for all and should be fed free choice. Males are prone to developing kidney/urinary tract stones (calculi) so should be maintained on a low protein, low calcium diet. A mineral balance achieved with a goat-formula mineral supplement aids in the prevention of urinary calculi. I recommend feeding males limited grain once they are over 6 months to one year of age, aumented with a goat-formulated mineral supplement. Avoiding high protein feed supplements significantly reduces the risk of developing urinary calculi (blockage). You can give your wether or buck a vegi or fruit treat while the girls get their grain. (If you insist on feeding grain to (mature) males, use a “Lamb Finisher” pellet. These contain a urine acidifier, ammonium chloride, which helps prevent calculi and is the grain of choice; not more than 1/8-1/4 cup per day). If you’ve had a problem with UC you might try adding extra urine acidifiers. Does benefit from alfalfa and/or increased grain -16 or 18% protein goat feed (ex. Caprine Challenger by Blue Seal) when pregnant or lactating. Mature non-breeding, animals may be maintained on a good quality hay alone. Kids are growing and benefit from a high protein diet. I strongly recommend feeding kids a starter pellet medicated with a coccidiastat for their first 6 months. It is also a good idea to have your vet check the stool for coccidia and other parisites reguarly when your goats are young and annually when mature.
Goats enjoy a variety of extras: a salt block, fruit and vegetable scraps, baked goods in moderation, tree prunings (apple, pine, spruce, maple, willow…). Be careful to avoid mold! Goats are very susceptible to mold toxins. Avoid toxic plants!: Rhododendron, azalea, yew(looks like spruce but no scent), laurel, cherry… these can kill in very small doses. Never change the diet suddenly, always introduce new or extras in small quantities. If your goat over eats (gorges on grain) that which it is not accustomed, watch it carefully for signs of illness and be prepared to call the vet. Goats need fresh water at all times. They also benefit from a salt block. A mineral supplement formulated for goats should be provided.
Goats need to be immunized annually for: C/D Tetanus and Rabies and receive a Selenium injection if living in a deficient area (the northeast). For the best of health, you should deworm your goats at least four times a year. The treatment I have come to like the best is “Eprinex”, a pour-on antiparasitic available from Jeffers Supply. It controls both internal and external parasites, has no milk or meat withdrawal time, and is very convenient to administer. Ivermectin paste (available at feed store) is a good broad range wormer. These should be rotated with Fenbebdazol paste to avoid resistance of the parasites. Pasture rotation is your best tool in parasite control. Hooves must be be trimmed as needed: the bottom should be flat without edges curling under. Scissors type garden pruning shears work well. Goats are sociable, playful creatures. They enjoy gentle attention; do not play aggressively with them or they will become aggressive (if you rub their head playing butting games they will but you unpredictably). They especially enjoy a neck or chest rub. They enjoy climbing and jumping on rocks, stumps, and platforms made for their pleasure (and your entertainment).
When you bring your goat home, expect that it will be frightened and nervous until it gets used to it’s new home. It will probably be a bit noisy, may act shy, and will need TLC and reassurance that it’s new home is a safe, comfortable, happy place. It usually takes about a week to settle in. Don’t chase your goat, let him/her come to you; it helps to offer a treat (handful of grain or vegie-fruit treat).
A healthy goat appears contented, alert, has an apitite and chews its cud. Its coat is smooth and glossy, skin is clean and pliable. One can feel the ribs under the skin but bones do not appear to jut out. The manure consists of formed, slightly moist pellets which, with the urine should be passed without effort.
The normal body tempature of a goat is 102-103F.
The normal pulse is 70-80/minute.
Goat Nutrition & Feeding By Ramhead Supply on Oct 16, 2017 03:39 pm
Feeding your goats can be as simple or as complicated as you choose to make it. Basically your goal is to promote good health and maximum production, while staying within a reasonable budget. Goats are pretty accommodating and will thrive on any number of different diets as long as their nutritional needs are met through two primary sources. Roughage (fiber) is provided through the hay, browsing, and pasture. Concentrates in the form of grain ration comprise the other half of the nutritional picture. Our experience on the subject of goat nutrition is very fundamental.
How much hay and grain is appropriate?
Although the amount varies from animal to animal depending on breed, gender, size , life stage (lactating or dry), age, etc. as well as the quality of the feed itself, there are some general guidelines. Both hay and grain offerings should be finished up in about 20 minutes. Remove any excess after the allotted time. Around five pounds of high quality hay daily should be sufficient per animal. Usually the grain ration is regulated by production when feeding milking does. The general rule for the grain ration of milking does is to feed one pound per day “for the doe” and an additional pound per day for each quart of milk she produces.
What kind of roughage?
Alfalfa is probably the most popular but if other types of roughage are more readily available and comparable in quality by all means use what works best for you. Mixed grasses, clover and cereal grain plants are excellent alternatives. Of course any vegetation harvested while plants are young makes the best feed and all hay should be closely monitored for freshness. Watch for mold or contamination by rodents, cats or bird droppings. During the growing season your garden can be an excellent source of roughage. Plants that are no longer producing, carrot tops, any veggies such as melons, pumpkins, squash, greens and carrots that are in over abundance make great roughage. Just be sure they are fresh and clean.
What kind of grain ration?
The variety of grains is just about unending. Commercial goat ration may be the easiest and best for you or you can mix your own combination using the grains most available and economical in your local. These include sunflower seed, cotton seed, soybeans (heat treated for digestion in goats) and beet pulp. Once again, no mold or contamination please. Be sure to smell any new grain ration to be sure it is wholesome and fresh. Commercial grain mixes for dairy cows won’t work if they contain urea. Check out the label. Urea is a synthetic protein that is inaccessible and toxic to goats.
Are supplements necessary?
The RSCO All-In-One Goat Minerals that are formulated just for goats are perfect for providing all necessary trace minerals, salt and vitamins for strong bones and teeth and promote general good health. A ratio of two parts calcium to one part phosphorus is best. Kelp is high in iodine as well as other minerals and fiber which is included at the perfect amount in the All-In-One Goat Minerals. Kelp Meal on its own can be offered free choice or a small amount may be added to the grain every day. Rumen Buffered Sodium Bicarbonate is of great benefit in maintaining pH balance in the rumen for good digestion. It is also included in the All-In-One Goat Minerals and can be offered free choice. Mineral mix for sheep should not be given to goats because it does not contain enough copper. Salt and mineral blocks don’t work very well for goats simply because they can’t get a sufficient amount to meet their nutritional needs.
All goats are very susceptible to parasites, more so than most other animal species. Even the claims from folks that there are cross breeds resistant to parasites, thus making them "immune to parasites" are not accurate. We recommend a parasite preventative and immune booster in the supplement regiment. Use the RSCO Herbal Wormer for parasite prevention and treatment and the Herbal Toner for a pick-me-up immune booster and skin and hair enhancer.
Remember, it costs WAY less to prevent than to treat.
Water Water Water
An abundant supply of fresh, clean, pure water is absolutely essential. If the water in your area does not taste good you might try adding a flavoring (our goats enjoy a little bit of Kool Aid) to encourage water consumption. Warm water is appreciated in cold weather. Also, we encourage preventative action so we recommend a couple drops of Grapefruit Seed Extract per gallon of water.
Is there any particular order or timing for feeding?
Start the morning out with a light portion of their daily hay ration. Their rumen is fairly empty and this will get things started. Next comes half the daily grain allotment. By feeding the hay first you avoid acidosis. Goats enjoy smaller, more frequent feedings so some hay at midday is nice, too. Grain ration should not be fed alone.
It’s okay to try new things. Good goat ration should be derived from at least three or more different sources. Oats, barley, wheat, milo and corn are all great in combination. Not too much corn because a little goes a long way.
Feed what’s plentiful for your locale and most of all, enjoy your goats!
Feeding your goats can be as simple or as complicated as you choose to make it. Basically your goal is to promote good health and maximum production, while staying within a reasonable budget. Goats are pretty accommodating and will thrive on any number of different diets as long as their nutritional needs are met through two primary sources. Roughage (fiber) is provided through the hay, browsing, and pasture. Concentrates in the form of grain ration comprise the other half of the nutritional picture. Our experience on the subject of goat nutrition is very fundamental.
How much hay and grain is appropriate?
Although the amount varies from animal to animal depending on breed, gender, size , life stage (lactating or dry), age, etc. as well as the quality of the feed itself, there are some general guidelines. Both hay and grain offerings should be finished up in about 20 minutes. Remove any excess after the allotted time. Around five pounds of high quality hay daily should be sufficient per animal. Usually the grain ration is regulated by production when feeding milking does. The general rule for the grain ration of milking does is to feed one pound per day “for the doe” and an additional pound per day for each quart of milk she produces.
What kind of roughage?
Alfalfa is probably the most popular but if other types of roughage are more readily available and comparable in quality by all means use what works best for you. Mixed grasses, clover and cereal grain plants are excellent alternatives. Of course any vegetation harvested while plants are young makes the best feed and all hay should be closely monitored for freshness. Watch for mold or contamination by rodents, cats or bird droppings. During the growing season your garden can be an excellent source of roughage. Plants that are no longer producing, carrot tops, any veggies such as melons, pumpkins, squash, greens and carrots that are in over abundance make great roughage. Just be sure they are fresh and clean.
What kind of grain ration?
The variety of grains is just about unending. Commercial goat ration may be the easiest and best for you or you can mix your own combination using the grains most available and economical in your local. These include sunflower seed, cotton seed, soybeans (heat treated for digestion in goats) and beet pulp. Once again, no mold or contamination please. Be sure to smell any new grain ration to be sure it is wholesome and fresh. Commercial grain mixes for dairy cows won’t work if they contain urea. Check out the label. Urea is a synthetic protein that is inaccessible and toxic to goats.
Are supplements necessary?
The RSCO All-In-One Goat Minerals that are formulated just for goats are perfect for providing all necessary trace minerals, salt and vitamins for strong bones and teeth and promote general good health. A ratio of two parts calcium to one part phosphorus is best. Kelp is high in iodine as well as other minerals and fiber which is included at the perfect amount in the All-In-One Goat Minerals. Kelp Meal on its own can be offered free choice or a small amount may be added to the grain every day. Rumen Buffered Sodium Bicarbonate is of great benefit in maintaining pH balance in the rumen for good digestion. It is also included in the All-In-One Goat Minerals and can be offered free choice. Mineral mix for sheep should not be given to goats because it does not contain enough copper. Salt and mineral blocks don’t work very well for goats simply because they can’t get a sufficient amount to meet their nutritional needs.
All goats are very susceptible to parasites, more so than most other animal species. Even the claims from folks that there are cross breeds resistant to parasites, thus making them "immune to parasites" are not accurate. We recommend a parasite preventative and immune booster in the supplement regiment. Use the RSCO Herbal Wormer for parasite prevention and treatment and the Herbal Toner for a pick-me-up immune booster and skin and hair enhancer.
Remember, it costs WAY less to prevent than to treat.
Water Water Water
An abundant supply of fresh, clean, pure water is absolutely essential. If the water in your area does not taste good you might try adding a flavoring (our goats enjoy a little bit of Kool Aid) to encourage water consumption. Warm water is appreciated in cold weather. Also, we encourage preventative action so we recommend a couple drops of Grapefruit Seed Extract per gallon of water.
Is there any particular order or timing for feeding?
Start the morning out with a light portion of their daily hay ration. Their rumen is fairly empty and this will get things started. Next comes half the daily grain allotment. By feeding the hay first you avoid acidosis. Goats enjoy smaller, more frequent feedings so some hay at midday is nice, too. Grain ration should not be fed alone.
It’s okay to try new things. Good goat ration should be derived from at least three or more different sources. Oats, barley, wheat, milo and corn are all great in combination. Not too much corn because a little goes a long way.
Feed what’s plentiful for your locale and most of all, enjoy your goats!
|
|
Kidding season is the most exciting time on your farm! We want to help you be prepared and confident. Here are eight simple things to remember to keep your stress down and your babies healthy!
8 EASY STEPS TO RAISING HEALTHY KIDS
These steps are inexpensive & proven to insure trouble-free goat rearing:
1] BE THERE TO HELP: Provide a clean area for the "blessed event". Try to be there for the birthing process. You may choose to leave the babies with Mom or adopt them for CAE prevention or hand rearing. It helps to have someone to attend to Mom and someone else to care for the newborns. Give Mom a bucket of fresh water. Check to be sure all the afterbirth is expelled and dispose of it properly.
2] NAVEL CARE: Prevent newborn "navel ill" by cutting the umbilical cord about 6 inches from the body, dipping it completely in Triodine-7 [19G] and clamping off with navel cord clamps [2L-5].
3] CLEAN KIDS: Dry the kids with clean cloths, giving careful attention to the nose and mouth.
4] BOOST IMMUNE SYSTEM: Always, always administer a 5 cc of Bovi Sera [3K] to provide the essential antibodies the babies must have to build a strong immune system.
5] COLOSTRUM: If you are hand raising, begin feeding either mom's colostrum (heat treated for CAE prevention) or colostrum substitute. Begin feeding kid milk replacer or pasteurized milk if you are on a CAE prevention program after a day or two of colostrum. (Adding some Goat Colostrum Plus Powder [3L] is a valuable aid in keeping your kid goats strong and healthy.) We feed all they care to eat, three times a day. Each kid needs a minimum of 10% of its body weight per day in milk or replacer.
6] MILK: Milk or kid milk replacer should be their primary source of nutrition for the first three months.
7] FOOD INTRODUCTION: Allow the kids to sample a little hay and grain occasionally.
8] COCCIDIOSIS PREVENTION: Starting at 3 weeks old, FEED 1/2 cc of DiMethox 40% [17D-1] ORALLY twice a day for one week, then once a week until weaned.
The Top 3 Things To Watch For When Kidding With Coccidia out and about.
Coccidiosis is a major health problem found primarily in young animals under 4 months who still have immature immune systems, but can sometimes be found in mature animals as well. This species-specific (NOT zoonotic) parasitic protozoa invades the body, damaging the intestinal wall and causing watery bloody scours, dehydration, weight loss, stalled growth, and often inflammation and secondary infections. Coccidiosis will typically be accompanied by the ‘thousand yard stare’, where the goat stares listlessly and vacantly into the distance, barely responding to stimuli.
The Top 3 Indicators of Coccidiosis
1. Watery and/or bloody scours (diarrhea)
2. Inflammation and Infections
3. Weight Loss
It is best diagnosed by a fecal test from your veterinarian. Only if a fecal sample shows more than 500 oocysts per gram of feces should it be considered coccidiosis. (Always request the oocysts count from your vet).
Coccidiosis is often caused by a compromised immune system in adults due to other health issues. Stress can also bring on the problem. In kids, it is usually caused by unclean or wet living conditions, overcrowding and/or contaminated water and food. One of coccidia’s life cycles is a thick-wall spore (oocyst) that can live in the manure of an infected animal for a very long time. As others pick up these oocysts when eating off the ground, they become infected. This is the best reason in the world to NEVER ever feed hay or grain off the ground. Always invest in proper bowls and hay feeders.
The Top 3 Causes of Coccidiosis
1. Unclean and/or wet living conditions
2. Contaminated water and/or food
3. Overcrowding and Stress
There are a couple different ways to treat.
The best product for prevention and treatment: CocciKill (New Formula Releases 2/16/2018)
Treatment: Treatment for adults is a daily ORAL dose of 1.5 Tablespoons of CocciKill for 5-7 days. For kids, the ORAL dose is 1 teaspoon daily for 5-7 days. Scourpectin may also be needed. As with all health problems, the immune system must be boosted. Bovi Sera can be given to stimulate the immune system. Dosage is a once daily 10cc SubQ injection for 2 days for adults and a once daily 5cc SubQ injection for 2 days for kids.
Many people often put kids on a preventative medication starting at 3 weeks of age. Give a twice daily 1.5 cc ORAL DOSE of CocciKill for 7 days. After that, repeat the dosage only once a week until weaned. Keep all areas, especially feed and water facilities as clean as possible. It may be necessary to separate kids from adults in severe cases.
Links:
Merck Veterinary Manual: Coccidiosis of Goats
Perdue University: Coccidiosis Control in Goats and Sheep
University of Maryland: Coccidiosis – Deadly scourge of young lambs and kids
Alabama A&M and Auburn Universities: Coccidiosis in Goats and Prevention
Coccidiosis is a major health problem found primarily in young animals under 4 months who still have immature immune systems, but can sometimes be found in mature animals as well. This species-specific (NOT zoonotic) parasitic protozoa invades the body, damaging the intestinal wall and causing watery bloody scours, dehydration, weight loss, stalled growth, and often inflammation and secondary infections. Coccidiosis will typically be accompanied by the ‘thousand yard stare’, where the goat stares listlessly and vacantly into the distance, barely responding to stimuli.
The Top 3 Indicators of Coccidiosis
1. Watery and/or bloody scours (diarrhea)
2. Inflammation and Infections
3. Weight Loss
It is best diagnosed by a fecal test from your veterinarian. Only if a fecal sample shows more than 500 oocysts per gram of feces should it be considered coccidiosis. (Always request the oocysts count from your vet).
Coccidiosis is often caused by a compromised immune system in adults due to other health issues. Stress can also bring on the problem. In kids, it is usually caused by unclean or wet living conditions, overcrowding and/or contaminated water and food. One of coccidia’s life cycles is a thick-wall spore (oocyst) that can live in the manure of an infected animal for a very long time. As others pick up these oocysts when eating off the ground, they become infected. This is the best reason in the world to NEVER ever feed hay or grain off the ground. Always invest in proper bowls and hay feeders.
The Top 3 Causes of Coccidiosis
1. Unclean and/or wet living conditions
2. Contaminated water and/or food
3. Overcrowding and Stress
There are a couple different ways to treat.
The best product for prevention and treatment: CocciKill (New Formula Releases 2/16/2018)
Treatment: Treatment for adults is a daily ORAL dose of 1.5 Tablespoons of CocciKill for 5-7 days. For kids, the ORAL dose is 1 teaspoon daily for 5-7 days. Scourpectin may also be needed. As with all health problems, the immune system must be boosted. Bovi Sera can be given to stimulate the immune system. Dosage is a once daily 10cc SubQ injection for 2 days for adults and a once daily 5cc SubQ injection for 2 days for kids.
Many people often put kids on a preventative medication starting at 3 weeks of age. Give a twice daily 1.5 cc ORAL DOSE of CocciKill for 7 days. After that, repeat the dosage only once a week until weaned. Keep all areas, especially feed and water facilities as clean as possible. It may be necessary to separate kids from adults in severe cases.
Links:
Merck Veterinary Manual: Coccidiosis of Goats
Perdue University: Coccidiosis Control in Goats and Sheep
University of Maryland: Coccidiosis – Deadly scourge of young lambs and kids
Alabama A&M and Auburn Universities: Coccidiosis in Goats and Prevention
Ammonium Chloride For Goats: Ultimate BenefitsApril 24, 2019 by adminWhat is ammonium chloride for goats? Animal bodies need minerals in order to have proper functioning. There are some cases these minerals may not be absorbed into the body.
You will later notice your animals having malfunction body systems and also facilitate the formation of stones. The condition is quite common in male goats.
Formation of stones general occur in the urinary tract of the goats and result in a condition known as urinary calculi.
The condition gives the goat a hard time to pass out urine but ammonium chloride for goats happen to be the natural treatment of the condition.
If you intend to start a successful goat farming business then you need to know the natural treatment for urinary calculi in goats.
Ammonium chloride supplement is also known for treating urinary calculi in goats but you need to learn about the best way to feed ammonium chloride to goats.
In this post, you will learn about the benefits of ammonium chloride, how it is used to prevent and treat goats with urinary calculi.
Further useful post: How to Start Profitable Dairy Farming in USA Benefits of Ammonium Chloride for GoatsAmmonium chloride for goats should be compulsory in any goat diet since they help to change the pH of the urine in order to prevent the occurrence of urinary calculi.
Sometimes the condition can be inevitable since the body of the goats reaches a point where they tend to be unable to absorb minerals into the systems.
The condition later results in the formation of stones that inhibit the goat from passing out the urine and this might be dangerous for your goats.
Do you know where to buy ammonium chloride? Well, I recommend you consult your vet about a reputable goat feeds store near you.
The condition is said to be common in male goats than female goats since they tend to have long urethra that is twisted and has several turns.
The urethra of the female goats is short and straight hence the reason why they are rarely affected by the condition. Do you know ammonium chloride cost? Visit the goat pellets near you for assistance.
What is the meaning of goat peeing blood? It sounds strange to me but it is better to seek further diagnosis from a specialist.
Therefore, you should note that an adequate supply of ammonium chloride food and supplements will help to prevent the occurrence as well as treat urinary calculi in goats.
PreventionWhoever said that prevention is better than cure was not a witch. Learn how to take care and breed your goats in order to prevent them from urinary calculi.
Use ammonium chloride supplements to treat your goat from the urinary blockage. Seek over the internet where to get ammonium chloride for sale.
I prefer to use ammonium chloride for meat goats since these goats are fed with the amount of grain diet as compared to the ewes.
The stones in the urinary tract develop when the pH level changes. The change leads to the crystallization of the urine into stone-like crystals which later blocks the tract.
Ammonium chloride help to make the urine acidic hence preventing the occurrence of stones. However, you need to get it from a reputable ammonium chloride manufacturers.
How much ammonium chloride do I give my goat? Well, use the table below and learn how to administer ammonium chloride for goats in their diet.
Ammonium Chloride
Pounds Per Ton of Feed
For Top-dress Feed
0.50%
10 Pounds
2.24 gram
1.00%
20 Pounds
4.54 gram
1.50%
30 Pounds
6.81 gram
Apart from supplying goat mineral with ammonium chloride supplements and feeds, here are steps on how to prevent urinary calculi in goats:
The vet will conduct a surgical procedure in order to relief the goat. Oral drench treatment is the perfect method to adapt in case of partial blockage and this will help to dissolve the stones in order to expel the urine out.
How do you give a goat ammonium chloride? Well, it is quite simple but you need to consult your professional vet for proper guidance since there are so many factors that determine the entire process.
Here are steps on how to prepare oral drench treatment for your goat breed:
Goat’s Weight
Ammonium Chloride per Gallon Water
60 Pounds
1.56 lbs
45 Pounds
1.17 lbs
30 Pounds
0.78 lbs
Note: Use a mixture of 0.26 grams of ammonium chloride per kg of body weight
Be very careful when dealing with ammonium chloride for goats. Bear in mind the ammonium chloride toxicity in sheep and goat.
Generally, ammonium chloride is meant for cleaning the urinary tract for any animal in order to prevent the chances of blockage occurrence.
Before using any ammonium chloride feed and any other natural treatment like apple cider vinegar for urinary calculi, I recommend that you consult your vet.
Supply your goats with a sufficient amount of fresh and clean drinking water on a daily basis apart from using cranberry juice for goats to unblock the urinary tract.
Go for the best feed for goats and also the best hay for goats. These feeds will make them have a strong immune system that will prevent them from common goat diseases.
You will later notice your animals having malfunction body systems and also facilitate the formation of stones. The condition is quite common in male goats.
Formation of stones general occur in the urinary tract of the goats and result in a condition known as urinary calculi.
The condition gives the goat a hard time to pass out urine but ammonium chloride for goats happen to be the natural treatment of the condition.
If you intend to start a successful goat farming business then you need to know the natural treatment for urinary calculi in goats.
Ammonium chloride supplement is also known for treating urinary calculi in goats but you need to learn about the best way to feed ammonium chloride to goats.
In this post, you will learn about the benefits of ammonium chloride, how it is used to prevent and treat goats with urinary calculi.
Further useful post: How to Start Profitable Dairy Farming in USA Benefits of Ammonium Chloride for GoatsAmmonium chloride for goats should be compulsory in any goat diet since they help to change the pH of the urine in order to prevent the occurrence of urinary calculi.
Sometimes the condition can be inevitable since the body of the goats reaches a point where they tend to be unable to absorb minerals into the systems.
The condition later results in the formation of stones that inhibit the goat from passing out the urine and this might be dangerous for your goats.
Do you know where to buy ammonium chloride? Well, I recommend you consult your vet about a reputable goat feeds store near you.
The condition is said to be common in male goats than female goats since they tend to have long urethra that is twisted and has several turns.
The urethra of the female goats is short and straight hence the reason why they are rarely affected by the condition. Do you know ammonium chloride cost? Visit the goat pellets near you for assistance.
What is the meaning of goat peeing blood? It sounds strange to me but it is better to seek further diagnosis from a specialist.
Therefore, you should note that an adequate supply of ammonium chloride food and supplements will help to prevent the occurrence as well as treat urinary calculi in goats.
PreventionWhoever said that prevention is better than cure was not a witch. Learn how to take care and breed your goats in order to prevent them from urinary calculi.
Use ammonium chloride supplements to treat your goat from the urinary blockage. Seek over the internet where to get ammonium chloride for sale.
I prefer to use ammonium chloride for meat goats since these goats are fed with the amount of grain diet as compared to the ewes.
The stones in the urinary tract develop when the pH level changes. The change leads to the crystallization of the urine into stone-like crystals which later blocks the tract.
Ammonium chloride help to make the urine acidic hence preventing the occurrence of stones. However, you need to get it from a reputable ammonium chloride manufacturers.
How much ammonium chloride do I give my goat? Well, use the table below and learn how to administer ammonium chloride for goats in their diet.
Ammonium Chloride
Pounds Per Ton of Feed
For Top-dress Feed
0.50%
10 Pounds
2.24 gram
1.00%
20 Pounds
4.54 gram
1.50%
30 Pounds
6.81 gram
Apart from supplying goat mineral with ammonium chloride supplements and feeds, here are steps on how to prevent urinary calculi in goats:
- Supply your goats with an adequate amount of clean and freshwater
- Ensure the ratio of calcium and phosphorus in the goat regular diet is about 2:1
- Add 3% of goat salt in water in order to ensure daily increase intake of water by goats
- Avoid wether goat or castrating goats
The vet will conduct a surgical procedure in order to relief the goat. Oral drench treatment is the perfect method to adapt in case of partial blockage and this will help to dissolve the stones in order to expel the urine out.
How do you give a goat ammonium chloride? Well, it is quite simple but you need to consult your professional vet for proper guidance since there are so many factors that determine the entire process.
Here are steps on how to prepare oral drench treatment for your goat breed:
Goat’s Weight
Ammonium Chloride per Gallon Water
60 Pounds
1.56 lbs
45 Pounds
1.17 lbs
30 Pounds
0.78 lbs
Note: Use a mixture of 0.26 grams of ammonium chloride per kg of body weight
Be very careful when dealing with ammonium chloride for goats. Bear in mind the ammonium chloride toxicity in sheep and goat.
Generally, ammonium chloride is meant for cleaning the urinary tract for any animal in order to prevent the chances of blockage occurrence.
Before using any ammonium chloride feed and any other natural treatment like apple cider vinegar for urinary calculi, I recommend that you consult your vet.
Supply your goats with a sufficient amount of fresh and clean drinking water on a daily basis apart from using cranberry juice for goats to unblock the urinary tract.
Go for the best feed for goats and also the best hay for goats. These feeds will make them have a strong immune system that will prevent them from common goat diseases.